Comments on: Arduino: IR remote/ intervalometer for Nikon D80 DSLR (that means timelapse photography yarrr!)

By: yoyoteng

yoyoteng — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 14:24:53 +0000

Yes, I have tried putting it about .5 meters away from the camera, and the camera did not pick up the signal. But, for me, it's no big deal when taking timelapse, I would just tie the Arduino (along with the batteries) on top of the lens (as fixed focal length and manual focus is used, the lens stays still while shooting). Here is a test shot taken in the Millenium Park in Chicago. Thanks again!

By: larry

larry — Tue, 02 Mar 2010 11:13:52 +0000

Hi Alastair,

I’m using a digital SLR so its on standby and the battery life will last along time – for my project I just left the camera as default but turned on the remote setting. For the Arduino a 9volt battery power supply should mean this’ll run for a while to – could build in a battery checker for camera and arduino.

Putting in a 2 way switch is easy enough, just do it at the power source – not sure for the camera though – that might require some hacking.

Alternatively you can get a cheap(ish) canon powershot or ixus that you can alter the firmware on that will let you do timelapse.

I want to do some timelapse actually for my lizards so I’ll run the camera and see how many shots I can get before power fails.

By: Alastair L

Alastair L — Tue, 02 Mar 2010 06:12:07 +0000

Hi Larry thanks for sharing. I want to make an intervalometer with an Arduino. My need is to leave the camera set up for days at a time (outdoors in a box) so battery life becomes a big issue. For instance the Kodak P880 I have set up at moment can shoot for days on one battery as it’s built-in intervalometer seems to shut camera functions down between shots. Problem is it stops at 99 shots :/ also don’t want to shot when nothing is happening on site (a building site).

Does your project leave the camera in stand-by mode b/w shots (I’m using 5min intervals)? How long does your camera battery last?

I could maybe run power as its on a building site. I’d like a 2-way switch that the foreman can flip in the morning when there is action on site and flip of again in the afternoon to stop my DSLR shooting.

By: larry

larry — Sat, 27 Feb 2010 18:24:35 +0000

No problem glad you can use it!

By: Jason

Jason — Sat, 27 Feb 2010 12:22:03 +0000

Thank you Larry for sharing the valuable experience and knowledge.

By: larry

larry — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 18:56:58 +0000

Wow. Thats a good timelapse! Can’t wait to see what you get when you automate it – post a link back on here is possible

By: Tony

Tony — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 15:01:05 +0000

I will also add that I used the Radioshack 276-0143 IR LED 5mm. The LED was tested about 2 inches from the sensor. Here is an example of what I did manually with the IR remote previously when out and about. It will be great to automate this now! Next stop… airplanes taking off at night.
Time Lapse: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrsfZBl5w6M

By: Tony

Tony — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 14:56:38 +0000

I used this code with zero problems. Not a bad solution for a $2 IR LED!

By: larry

larry — Tue, 09 Feb 2010 19:56:57 +0000

Glad it helped you out. I found though that I had to keep my IR LED quite close to the camera port did you have that issue as well?

By: yoyoteng

yoyoteng — Tue, 09 Feb 2010 04:09:07 +0000

Thanks! I was thinking about taking some timelapse with the Nikon D90, and also thought about using Arduino. With just a few clicks on Google, BAM!! Your website came up. After a trip to the electronic store, timelapse with Nikon D90 + Arduino works like a charm! Thanks for sharing! For other people interested in this, but is in the US, Radioshack’s 276-0143 IR LED (5mm, T-1 3/4 case) will do the job.